We met Andrea Incontri on the occasion of his womenswear show. His vision for SS13 is a fine mix of flowing dresses, flower camouflages and soft architectural volumes in pastel colors.
The very best part of his collection consisted, of course, in accessories—Incontri’s distinctive feature. Small geometrical bucket bags and minimal satchels worn as stiff backpacks are perfect fellows for sophisticated girls and elegant urban travelers.
We sat down with the Milan-based designer to better know his imagination and get close to his project philosophy.
At least in the past four years, I see a new and strong interest in menswear rather than in womenswear. Do you think it’s because of an effective market need or because womenswear reached a saturation point? Is menswear really selling more than womenswear?
I began designing unisex collections, focusing on function more than gender, but I found out that the market always need precise distinctions. Now, for what concern menswear, I believe there are new possibilities that lead to new codes and a new freedom.
Again, in this last period, I see an increasing interest in workwear, traditional garments, vintage items, and classic elegance. How do you explain this phenomenon?
I’ve always been fascinated by workwear because of its connection with function. In my last menswear collection, I stressed this aesthetic taking inspiration by the concept of worklife balance: a balance between your work and a quality of life.
When I see your collection I think about order…are you a tidy person?
More than tidy…rigorous.
A famous song from The Strokes says “Ten decision shapes your life, You’ll be aware of five about…” are you aware of some of those turning points so far in your life as well as in your career?
I believe that your values are the ones that allow you to change your life: determination, honesty, humbleness, organization and intuition.
Do you find any difficulty communicating your taste and your message to other people? Who are the most difficult players in the fashion industry to reach as an emerging designer?
I think that starting from the lowest rank is necessary and formative. It’s not easy to stand out and communicate a message, but it’s crucial to be able to find your own imagination (and the most personal way to express it) in order to find someone who can understand it and share it.
How did it felt the first time that you’ve seen your design in the street worn by a complete stranger?
What is your favorite piece of any of your collections?
It’s one of the first leather pieces that I designed, I renew it every season and is a constant presence in my collections: the “quadrato”.
What was your dream job as a kid?
Words by Caterina Coccioli
Photography by Tommaso Di Ciommo